Bonding can foster a positive, stable relationship between two or more rabbits. It can be a rewarding and enriching experience for both the rabbits and you as their owner, but it requires dedication, patience, consistency, and careful observation of their body language and behavior. The key is constant awareness of potential challenges.
To bond or not to bond….that is the question! The reasoning behind bonding rabbits is deeply rooted in their natural instincts as social creatures (rabbits in the wild live in large groups, and their instincts drive them to seek companionship). Living with a companion helps meet their emotional, mental, and physical needs, offering benefits such as reduced stress, improved health, increased happiness, and decreased negative behaviors. Through bonding, rabbits experience a higher quality of life, which ultimately leads to a healthier, happier existence.
That being said, don’t get a second rabbit just because you feel pressured to. There are some rabbits that do prefer to be an only bunny whether it is due to trauma they experienced from other humans or animals, or maybe you have a busy household that keeps your rabbit entertained. The main thing to remember is that if your rabbit prefers to live alone they may become lonely, bored, or stressed so give them lots of love and attention.
There are several factors to consider before diving into adopting a second rabbit. Can you financially afford to take care of two rabbits? Do you have enough to space to accommodate a second rabbit? Is your rabbit happy or does it seem to need companionship? How much time do you realistically spend with your pet and can you increase that time? Do you have a neutral area to do the bonding process in? Will you be able to handle the stress that can accompany bonding?
Rabbit Pairing 101
If you happen to be in the beginning stages of getting a rabbit as a pet, it would be ideal to adopt a bonded pair from a rescue or sanctuary, this way the work has already been done! However if you already have a pet rabbit, then bunny dating is the way to go!
Bunny dating is a great way to ensure that your rabbit finds a compatible companion before adopting a new rabbit. By allowing the rabbits to meet in a neutral, controlled environment, you can increase the chances of a successful bond and avoid potential personality clashes. Working with a shelter that offers bunny dating can help guide you through the process while facilitating the meeting of prospective compatible rabbits. This can make it smoother and less stressful for both you and your rabbit. The initial meetings usually last for short periods, with the rabbits being closely monitored for positive, neutral or negative behaviors.
- Positive Signs: Look for signs of curiosity, sniffing, grooming or calm behavior. Rabbits may also mirror each other’s actions, which indicates a positive interaction. There may be love at first sight or tentative friendship.
- Neutral Signs: Ignoring each other can also be a good sign during the first date, as it shows neither rabbit is feeling threatened or aggressive. You may see mounting which is ok if it is accepted by both rabbits.
- Negative Signs: Aggressive behaviors like chasing, biting, lunging, or excessive mounting may indicate that the pair is not a good match. In such cases, the rabbits are separated to avoid injury.
Sometimes rabbits may not get along immediately. Multiple dating sessions with the same rabbit or others may be needed to determine the best match. Shelters typically offer several sessions to ensure the rabbits have the opportunity to interact and form opinions of each other. After a few dates, you and the shelter staff will have a good idea of which rabbit your current rabbit prefers. A calm, friendly interaction is a strong indicator of compatibility, and the shelter will guide you in selecting the right companion based on their personalities
Matching similar temperaments is key to successful bonding. For instance, pairing a high-energy rabbit with a calm, laid-back one might cause friction. While same-sex pairings can work, opposite-sex pairings (as long as both rabbits are spayed/neutered) tend to have a higher success rate in bonding. Before starting the bunny dating process, make sure your rabbit is spayed or neutered and has had some time to recover from surgery (usually 4-6 weeks). This reduces the chances of hormonal aggression and makes your rabbit more open to bonding.
By letting your rabbit interact with multiple rabbits before choosing one, you reduce the risk of future fights and stress. This is especially important if your rabbit is territorial or has shown signs of being particular about companions. A good first impression during bunny dating can lead to a smoother and quicker bonding process, as the rabbits may already have established some positive interactions. This helps the rabbits feel more comfortable with each other when they move in together.
According to The Veterinary Nurse, “Care should also be taken to reduce the likelihood of disease transmission between rabbits if intending to introduce a new rabbit. Taking steps to make sure both rabbits are healthy prior to introduction and to prevent diseases such as Encephalitazoon cuniculi and respiratory disease is important. Having both rabbits checked by a veterinarian is recommended before bonding begins. An unwell rabbit will be less likely to respond well to another rabbit being introduced.” The Rabbit Welfare Association and Fund of the UK suggests giving both rabbits a 28 day Panacur treatment to guard against EC.
Best Age To Bond
Bonding is generally easier with younger, neutered/spayed rabbits, but adult and even senior rabbits can also bond successfully with the right approach and match. The key is to consider the rabbits’ personalities, health, and readiness for bonding.
- Young rabbits: particularly those between 3 and 6 months, are usually more adaptable and curious, making them open to bonding with other rabbits. At this age, they’re more likely to form strong bonds quickly since they haven’t yet developed strong territorial or dominant behaviors. Wait until the rabbits are spayed/neutered and healed before bonding.
- Adult Rabbits: 6 months or older can bond well, as their personalities are more fully developed, and hormonal behaviors are less intense after surgery. Those who are already social, can form deep and stable bonds. NOTE: adults may be more set in their ways, making them a bit more territorial or resistant to bonding if they’ve been living alone for a long time.
- Senior Rabbits: 5-7 year old rabbits can still bond and often benefit from companionship as they age, helping with emotional well-being and providing mutual comfort.
7 Advantages of Bonding
As with anything, there are always pros and cons, however when bonding 2 or more rabbits, the pros far outweigh the cons.
1. Companionship and Reduced Loneliness: Rabbits are social animals that thrive on companionship. Having a bonded partner can prevent loneliness and improve their emotional well-being. They are more fun to watch and interact with, as they display affectionate, playful behavior.
2. Improved Mental and Physical Health: In unfamiliar or stressful situations (e.g., vet visits, travel), bonded rabbits can comfort each other by staying close and creating a sense of security. They may cuddle, groom, or simply sit together, offering emotional support. They are also typically more content, which can reduce stress-related health issues.
3. Better Social Development: A bonded rabbit can help socialize a shy or nervous rabbit, leading to increased confidence and overall better social behavior. Bonding doesn’t just help them relate to each other; it can also improve their socialization with humans. A bonded rabbit may become more trusting and comfortable with their owner after seeing their companion interact calmly with them.
4. Mutual Grooming and Comfort: Rabbits groom each other, which serves a hygienic purpose. Mutual grooming helps keep hard-to-reach areas clean, prevents fur mats, and maintains healthy skin. It reinforces their bond. They also tend to cuddle and sleep together, offering each other warmth and comfort.
5. Entertainment for Each Other: A partner keeps them mentally stimulated and entertained which prevents boredom related destructive behavior, provides play, interaction, and companionship. They will often engage in playful behavior, which encourages exercise and helps keep them physically active. This is crucial for their overall health, as it promotes good digestion, prevents obesity, and maintains muscle tone.
6. Reduction of Aggression: Rabbits that are lonely, anxious or frustrated may become aggressive or territorial with their human caretakers. A single rabbit left alone for long periods may chew furniture, dig at carpets, or engage in other destructive behaviors out of boredom. Bonding can reduce these behaviors by providing a natural outlet for social interaction and interactive play lessening the desire to act out destructively.
7. Longer Lifespan: The companionship of a bond can lead to a longer, happier life, as social animals tend to live longer in pairs or groups. They provide each other with a sense of security, reducing stress and nervousness that may negatively impact a their health .
Yes, bonding can have it’s share of challenges such as time and effort, stress, added cost for extra spatial equipment and the possibility of needing re-bonding sessions, but seeing your rabbit happily co-exisisting with another rabbit is so precious it is totally worth it.
When Things Go Wrong
Unfortunately sometimes things don’t go as planned and you need to be aware of them before the bonding process begins. Rabbits are very territorial so introducing a new rabbit into the pen of your rabbit can cause immediate fighting. They are hierarchical so bonding may take time if neither rabbit backs down and becomes submissive.
Initial Aggression or Fighting: Rabbits may initially show aggression towards each other, especially if they are not neutered/spayed. Fights can lead to injury, and separating them may be necessary to prevent harm. Behaviors to look out for:
- continuous, fast circling (this might lead to a fight)
- excessive mounting or chasing
- boxing (when both rabbits stand on their back legs ‘boxing’ each other)
- lunging forward, grunting or ears flattened
- excessive fur pulling
Ups and downs: Don’t assume because things have been going smoothly, they will every time you put the rabbits together. There is always the potential for setbacks.
Not All Rabbits Bond: Despite efforts, some rabbits simply won’t bond, and they may need to live in separate areas for their own safety, which can be disappointing and challenging.
Potential Stress for Owners: The bonding process can be stressful as you try to navigate introductions, resolve conflicts, and monitor behaviors, particularly if the rabbits are difficult to bond.
Risk of Re-bonding After Separation: If bonded rabbits are separated for medical reasons or other temporary situations, they may need to be re-bonded, which doesn’t always succeed and can disrupt their relationship.
Bonding Techniques
Bonding rabbits requires a careful, step-by-step process to ensure the rabbits develop a positive relationship. Before attempting the process, make sure both rabbits are spayed or neutered. Hormones can lead to aggression and territorial behavior, making bonding more difficult. It’s advisable to wait at least a month after surgery before starting the bonding process.
Before directly introducing the rabbits, house them in separate enclosures, but close enough so they can see, smell, and hear each other. This helps them become familiar without direct contact. Swap their bedding or toys between cages so they get used to each other’s scent.
MOUNTING
This is a normal behavior to encounter during the bonding process. It is not as much a form of sex as it is an expression of dominance. One or both may conduct this behavior in order to establish hierarchy. This is ok as long as the submissive (bottom) rabbit is tolerating it, however it can lead to a tiff or full on fight so you need to be diligent watching them. If you are bonding a male and female, the male may try to mount the females head. In this case, you need to gently remove him so the female does not bite his genitals. Once fully bonded the mounting behavior should cease.
Check your mood before starting. If you have had a bad day, then it would be wise to wait as rabbits are sensitive to our emotions. There are a few different techniques you can employ to bring your rabbits from strangers to best friends.
A Natural Approach
Begin by letting the rabbits have time near each other, but separated by a barrier (like a fence or divider). Make sure the enclosures are not touching. You will want space between so nobody gets bitten. This helps them interact safely and builds familiarity. Observe how they behave when they’re next to each other without being able to physically touch.
When you feel ready to begin, introduce your rabbits in a neutral, unfamiliar area where neither rabbit has established territory. Bathrooms, hallways, or a neutral pen can work well. If one rabbit feels that a space is “theirs,” it may cause aggression.
Start with very short meetings (5–10 minutes) in the neutral space. Gradually increase the time as long as the rabbits are not showing aggressive behaviors. Make the neutral space as large as you feel comfortable handling. Place a large pile of hay in the center. Have 2 new clean litter boxes, hidey huts and water bowls handy.
Look for positive behaviors such as grooming, lying down near each other, nose nudging, or relaxed body posture. These are signs that the rabbits are comfortable and interested in building a bond. Encourage good behavior by offering treats, praise, and petting when they exhibit calm and friendly behavior towards each other. Don’t play favorites. On the same note, be aware of aggressive behaviors such as lunging, biting, growling, chasing, and fur pulling. If this occurs, calmly separate the rabbits (using a towel or a barrier to avoid getting bitten) and give them some space before reintroducing them later. Always try to end the date on a good note.
As the rabbits become more comfortable with each other, increase the duration of their time spent together in the neutral space. Once they show positive signs, allow them to share a space for longer periods to continue fostering their relationship. Start with semi-neutral areas and gradually let them explore each other’s primary territory (e.g., living areas). Supervise closely to avoid conflicts.
Once the rabbits are comfortable spending long periods together without signs of aggression, you can allow them to live together in the same enclosure. Make sure the space is large enough for both rabbits to have room to move freely and avoid potential territorial issues.
NOTE: If aggression occurs or one rabbit becomes too dominant, it may be necessary to slow down the process. (In case of a fight you will need to swiftly and gently separate the rabbits from each other). Give them a break for a day or two then reintroduce them in neutral territory or separate housing for short, supervised sessions .
Stress Bonding
In some cases, inducing mild stress can help bond rabbits by encouraging them to seek comfort in each other. This can be done by placing them together in a carrier and taking them for a short car ride or gently rocking the carrier. The stress of the ride can prompt them to huddle together for support. When using this approach, ensure the stress isn’t overwhelming, and always monitor the rabbits closely. This technique should only be used occasionally and with caution.
- Take the bunnies for a car ride (you will need 2 people in case of a fight)
- Put them in a laundry basket on top of the washer and turn it on
- Turn the vacuum cleaner
- Take them for a walk in a pet stroller
The 24/7 Method
This method is just as the name says…24/7. Which means you must be with them every minute of every day for 2 weeks. They will need to start in a small neutral space increasing only by a foot each day. If they fight, you will need to reduce the space. Any time you must leave the house you will need to take them with you in a carrier. Success will be gained once they are not fighting and you see them grooming for at least 24-48 hours.
The Bonding Coach
Deciding whether to bond your rabbits yourself or use a professional bonder depends on your experience, comfort level, and the rabbits’ personalities. There are both bonding coaches and bonding services. A coach may work with you via zoom, in house or privately in their home or yours. Bonding services are typically a boarding situation.
The Pros: Professional bonders are experienced in reading rabbit behavior and have specialized knowledge of bonding techniques. They can quickly identify whether rabbits are showing signs of progress or whether adjustments are needed, have experience managing various personality types, know how to handle aggressive behavior (minimizing the risk of injury to the rabbits). Sometimes professionals can speed up the bonding process taking the stress and emotional burden off the owner. This is especially helpful if you’re nervous about managing potential fights or setbacks. If you have a notoriously difficult rabbit, you may want to consider a bonding coach or service.
The Cons: Hiring a professional can be expensive, especially if the process takes a long time or if there are additional services like boarding, transportation, or follow-up visits. You may feel less connected to the process and your rabbits. Since bonding is an emotional and interactive process, some owners prefer being personally involved to build trust and rapport with both rabbits. After the bonding process is complete, the rabbits may still need time to adjust to living together in your home. Sometimes, after professional bonding, issues can arise when the rabbits are reintroduced to their home environment, which may require some ongoing supervision.
NOTE: Once your rabbits are successfully bonded it would be ideal to house them in a new area, unfamiliar to both. If you are using existing x-pens, thoroughly wash them. Start out by putting them in a smaller area and increasing their space as time goes on without any setbacks.
Q&A With A Bonding Coach
1. What is the name of your business? Heather Annette (Promoting human mental health and animal wellness through mutually beneficial cohabitation)
2. What do you do? I am a Bunny Bonding and Well-Being Coach. My system customizes a bond or re-bond strategy for each specific situation. Bunnies are each unique. Each bond must be approached with non-polarized thinking which is why a tailor made program like mine is better suited than online videos and ‘off-the-cuff’ advice from socials.
3. How does your business work? I have a three step model which I guide bunny parents through remotely. Unlike other sources that give viewers a quick bonding basic overview and then leave people ro struggle with unforeseen issues, lots of uncertainties, and questions, my process is future-paced with mutual cohabitation goals and daily communications as needed. Rabbits remain in their homes during the process.
Generally, the quintessence of my bonding style is using the bunny’s perspective and not the human’s. The most crucial mistake bonders and owners make is to anthropomorphize bunnies. While they share some traits with humans, they are lagomorphs. Understanding their relating to one another as well as to people is essential. As are all animals, bunnies are associative and excogitative learners that gather sensory information and react accordingly.
4. What is your bonding technique, how does it differ from other bonders and do you bond rabbits with other types of animals such as dogs and cats? I have bonded lots of mixed and same species animals (bunnies, cats, dogs, hamsters, birds) to live harmoniously. Always, the broad stroke picture is uncaged and un-hutched roaming spaces where bunnies receive proper nutrition, mental and physical enrichment, and love. To that end, before starting the bonding process, I ask clients to answer questions about each bunny including their name, age, weight, breed, diet, habitat, background, and personality. The more information I am given, the better I can begin a plan of action.
With safe edibles, I can recommend weeds, roots, flower parts, herbs, and plants to feed in both fresh and dried forms to elevate both mental and physical health concerns. With boredom and frustration, I can suggest easy voice-directed training tips, simple daily exercises, shared bunny-with-bunny and bunny-with-human activities, and puzzles. With a solid behavior modification model, unwanted behaviors can be lessened and often eliminated and replaced with contentment.
My appreciation for aesthetics gives way to new bunny-centered habitat and set-up advice, from sophisticated lapin lavatories, handsome hay dispensers, and bougie beds to color palettes, designer decor, and fabulous furnishing. My bunny bonding and lifestyle coaching is unique as opposed to other ‘just bond them’ attitude. I do not endorse stress or trauma bonds as they usually do not last and cause forced discomfort to the bunnies. My gentle physical touch models help the human form bonds with their bunnies all the while coaxing the bunnies into a bond.
5. What is your success rate? As a volunteer for shelters and rescues, a foster, and multiple animal mom, I have helped many bunnies find health, happiness, and companionship. When told a bunny has gone on speed dates and has been evaluated by rescue/shelter staff as ‘un-bondable’, I bond them. Some bunnies have broken bonds.
I help people to isolate reasons, make changes to diet and habitat, and re-bond them. Some bunnies who other professional bonders have attempted to bond multiple times, even boarding them on site to encourage bonds, and failed, I am able to bond. Bunnies tell the story…they tell us by their body language how and when to forge relationships. I know how to listen to them.
6. How do you charge? I have offered my services free of charge to many clients but, as I donate some proceeds to continued rescue work, it has become necessary to charge a fee. My heart is for improving bunny lives, though, so fees are nominal. My website has a few bunny-themed products including my collection of couture Hay Bag feeders. They keep bunnies from consuming urine-soaked hay which can lead to bacterial infections, standing on urine-soaked hay which leads to scald and pododermatitis and my hay bags reduce the volume of wasted hay.
7. How can someone contact you? heatherannette.com, Instagram or email
Surviving Rabbits, Elder Buns & Special Needs
Special considerations will need to be made in the case of death of a companion rabbit, elderly rabbits and special needs rabbits.
Loss of a Companion: When one rabbit of a bonded pair passes away, the other will often grieve by exhibiting signs of depression, loneliness, or stress. It’s important to carefully consider whether to introduce a new rabbit to the surviving one. While it can help fill the social void, timing and approach are crucial to ensure the surviving rabbit’s well-being. A new bond may eventually be formed with another rabbit to alleviate loneliness.
It’s important to give the surviving rabbit time to process the loss, emotionally recover and adjust to life without its partner. The time needed varies depending on the rabbit, but a few weeks is usually sufficient. During this time, maintain the rabbit’s routine as much as possible to provide stability. Offer extra attention, enrichment, and interaction to help alleviate feelings of loneliness.
A new bond can lift the surviving rabbit’s spirits, leading to increased activity, better mental health, and a stronger appetite. Many rabbits flourish with a new companion, resuming natural behaviors like grooming, cuddling, and playing. Choosing a rabbit with a compatible personality is crucial for the success of the bond.
There’s no “perfect” time to introduce a new rabbit. Some rabbits may seem ready for a new companion within a few weeks, while others might need a few months. Pay attention to your rabbit’s behavior and emotional state to determine when they might be open to bonding again. If possible, arrange for short trial introductions with potential new companions (through a shelter or rabbit rescue), observing how your rabbit reacts. If they seem calm, curious, or welcoming, this could be a sign they are ready for a new friend.
Sometimes the surviving rabbit may be elderly or have health issues, so if you’re unable to introduce another rabbit increase the amount of attention and enrichment you offer.
Elder Buns or Special Needs: Some elderly and special needs rabbits may have health issues that could that could present a challenge making the bonding process more stressful. Additionally, they may have less energy and be less inclined to interact actively, though they still crave companionship. Great care will need to be taken to prevent injury and stress which could exacerbate any health issue. The new rabbit’s personality and energy level must be compatible to avoid overwhelming the other rabbit. In these cases, a calm and gentle rabbit would be the best match.
Practical Tips For Bonding
All bunnies are different and thus the process of bonding will look different. It may happen quickly or take longer, some may have set backs while others won’t. Go at the rabbits’ pace and don’t force interactions. The main thing is not to stress. Give yourself time and patience, navigate confidently and be fully present during the process. This will strengthen your bond with both rabbits as you take an active role in fostering their relationship.
- Give both rabbits pets at the same time
- Spay or neuter both rabbits before bonding
- Let your rabbit choose who he or she is interested in-introduce them to multiple rabbits before deciding
- Place living quarters next to, but separated from each other
- Put their food and water on the side of their pens that are directly next to each other
- Place a little mashed banana on their foreheads to encourage grooming
- Assign a neutral “date” area with 2 of everything (litter boxes, water bowls, hidey huts etc..)
- Add lots of toys for them to play with
- Let the rabbits have playtime prior to date time so they are a bit worn out
- Be prepared to stop any fighting (gloves for your hands, a spray bottle, a broom)
- Give both rabbits attention during the bonding process, such a petting
- Start out with 10-15 minute sessions and increase depending on your success
- Watch for nipping and mounting…stop if the submissive is in distress
After a couple of weeks or months without success, you may want to move to a different neutral space. I would also keep a log right from the start: include the days you put them together, the times (time of day as well as length of date), whether they had a successful attempt or what might have gone wrong. This can help you discern what is working and what is not. Sometimes it will all be dependent on your intuition.
Resources for Bonding
While not a necessity, having the right tools and equipment can make the bonding process smoother and safer for both rabbits. From neutral spaces and dividers to calming distractions like toys and treats, these items ensure that you can manage bonding sessions effectively, reducing stress and conflict.
A portable playpen or an exercise pen (x-pen) can create a neutral zone for bonding sessions. Choose a space like a bathroom, hallway, or a room that neither rabbit has been in before. (Some people like to use a bathtub during the process, however because a tub is hard and slippery there is potential for injury…I would not recommend it).
A baby gate or a grid divider (like a wire mesh or NIC cubes) placed between their living areas allows the rabbits to see and smell each other safely.
Two separate litter boxes for each rabbit (or more for common areas) can help with reducing conflict during bonding sessions.
Towels or fleece blankets to place in bonding spaces or to throw over rabbits if a fight occurs. (You can use them to help calm rabbits down or as barriers during early introductions. In case of a fight, a towel can also help separate the rabbits without risking injury to yourself.)
Two pet carriers (one for each rabbit) for safely transporting them during bonding sessions.
Healthy rabbit treats (like small pieces of vegetables, herbs, or hay-based treats) and their regular food and hay to help encourage positive associations and reward good behavior during bonding. Giving both rabbits treats when they show calm or friendly behavior can reinforce positive interactions.
Rabbit-safe toys, tunnels, or chew items can help distract the rabbits and prevent tension during bonding sessions. Keeping them mentally stimulated can also reduce stress and allow them to bond naturally over shared activities.
Blankets, bedding, or toys from each rabbit’s space to swap between their living areas. Scent swapping is a great technique to familiarize the rabbits with each other.
A second room, small pen, or separate cage to give a rabbit a break during heated interactions. This space should be comfortable and calming, but separate from the other rabbit.
Thick gloves can protect your hands when handling or separating rabbits in case of a fight. Oven mitts work well for this! You will also want long pants and sleeves on so you don’t get scratched.
Vinegar and water spray or other pet-safe cleaning products. You’ll need to clean up after bonding sessions, especially if there’s marking or other territorial behavior. Neutral spaces should be kept clean and free of the rabbits’ scents.
A baby monitor or webcam allows you to check on the rabbits without disturbing them.
Stress Bonding Tools: For stressful bonding sessions, consider using a laundry basket or small crate to confine both rabbits together in a smaller space, promoting closeness without room for chasing or fighting. Pet carriers are useful for taking the rabbits on short car rides.
Final Thoughts
Successful rabbit bonding requires patience, observation, and a careful approach. Don’t enter into the bonding process with any expectations. By spaying or neutering, starting with neutral territory, and gradually increasing interaction time, you can help your rabbits form a lasting, happy bond. Keep an eye on their behavior, intervene if necessary, and remember that every rabbit pair is unique—what works for one pair might take more time or adjustment for another. Each pair of rabbits is different—some bond quickly, while others may need weeks or months. The key is to move at their pace, ensuring a safe and stress-free environment during the bonding process.
After diligent attempts at bonding you still have 2 rabbits who just won’t accept each other, don’t feel like you failed. Like people, some rabbits just won’t get along. If they somewhat get along, you always have the option to let them live side by side and have short supervised playtimes together and who knows….maybe they will surprise you!
